Machining parts for Mike B

 Just some more components, I made for Mike B.

Aluminium hex bar, drilled both ends and tapped with an M6 thread.

Enough so that if it needs the overall length to be shortened, it can be.

First picture also has part of the second component I had to cut to length, drill a 4mm dia hole in one end, with a milled corresponding flat length on the other end.

R5-D4 dome build - on this day 2013

 

On this day going back to 2013........

R5-D4's dome build progress, link to original Blog post here.

Shoulder hubs - Aluminium - Paul’s R2 No2

Paul is building a second R2 and had a semi finished pair of shoulder hubs. They were correct O/D, thickness and had four holes in, but were heavy, about 1.5kg!!

His friend wasn’t able to do more than this as his company was closing down. I offered to do my best bit of milling at my work.

First hub, was a very time consuming process. One which if I had thought about first, as I did on the second hub, I should of turned out the inner diameter to the required larger diameter, on the lathe, THEN got to work on the millers rotary table!

Above picture, show how much material had to be removed. Using a manual milling machine, means you having to do everything by hand lol.

Thankfully using the lathe sped up the process for the second hub.

Final weight of each was 1KG.

Treadwell WED-15 droid build : Part 14

3D Printing:

March

I needed another way to operate the claw. The bowden tube idea using a metal guitar string, wasn’t working well enough 😢, but it still needed a servo to operate it.

I dug around in my servo box and remembered that I had this nano servo I bought back in 2020 for the ‘life form scanner’ project idea.

The claw’s motion only requires a light operation and the servo has just enough power to move it.

I redraw the end parts to accommodate fitting the servo inside it.

Exported the stl files to be able to print on the Tevo at home (works was already in use printing overnight parts). An hour print time for each half.

Only a few more adjustments to this design, one, making the tube the claw fits into, longer, another, to increase one side to make it thicker. Maybe another internal adjustment for the servo horn to have a bit more space.

The second version needed one more addition 😂 …..as I forgot to put in the slot for the servos tab. And before this got printed, I added holes for a brass threaded insert to secure the two half’s.

The carbon fibre tube got destroyed on trying to remove it, so I’ll be using a spare aluminium tube I had left over from the life form scanner project. Am thinking, the tube could be glued to one half of the unit and then screwed onto the other half, or it could be pinned in place.

Woodwork:

The base bottom board was screwed into place, again, counter sinking them.

I then used P40 (fibre glass resin) to fill in the gaps front and rear.

I needed to get some photos for celebration.

So I assembled most of WED together for this shot.

The base isn’t glued together yet, I’ll wait till I have the wheels and motors sorted out.

Electronics:

I ordered 10meters of servo lead so that I could make up my on lengths. I also found and ordered my new favourite tool lol.

I honestly don't know how I've managed over all these years 😂.

The nano servo plug needed to be removed so that it's contacts could be threaded through into the aluminium tube. I connected it up with a length of new servo lead, which I fed up through the upper arm and then into the mast.

I used some braided tubing to group together the other two new servo leads, one for the neck and one for the head/eye servo.

This was as far as I got with time restraints, and the other main project needed for Celebration, so WED-15 will just be a work in progress on display.

Screen accurate R5 eyes - found part by OpenR2

Over on the R2 Discord chat, OpenR2 member raised the question about R5’s eye sensor not being like the ‘club spec standard’ design but actually being conical.

As with lots of items used in the original trilogy, unusual looking things from everyday items were used in different ways. OpenR2 showed a high resolution image of R5’s eye and the shape/shadows showed it to be conical and not the stepped look us club members have been using all these years. As stated above, a lot of the droid greeblies & even Boba Fett's costume and jet pack, in fact came off  vinyl record decks, specifically a Transcriptor Hydraulic Reference Turntable .

He posted up the high res pictures and the turntable, similar to the one below.

Items also (possibly) used that match is the vinyl sweep brush which resembles R5’s antenna.

I have always found the search for these found items to be of great interest, so this was something that I had to follow up on. Online searches revealed the record deck's history and more [see Transcriptor link above].

So using the 3D CAD model I had already drawn up years ago, I started on modifying a version to match that of the image supplied by OpenR2.

Creating a 3D Knurl:

I also had to find out how to draw up a knurled effect. Previous jobs have only required the superimposed image of a knurl, but I needed the actual knurl for 3D printing. I found a quick tutorial on YouTube which helped put me in the right direction as to which creative option to use, 'coil'. Once one groove was created, I then copied in 'circular' to multiply around the diameter. Next was to create a new 'work plane', and offset it half the distance of the knurled with. I then mirrored the original 'circular' grouping and this created the opposite grooves to create the knurled effect.

The above image was version (attempt) 'd' or 'e' lol.
Eventually settled on version 'F'

Prusa account: Link openr2-r5-d4-original-eyes

Throwback to 2013:

Wow…..10 years ago I had finished machining up two of the three eye pieces that would have the spy holes lens units fitted.

Here’s the link: R5-D4’s Eyes - update

Back to 2023 and here are the new more realistic eye pieces.

And here they are being painted.

Next up was to cut out some opaque plastic that I had salvaged from a flat screen monitor. This was placed in the recess after the rear part of the original eye piece was fitted through from the front. Then I pushed in a cabochon into each one.

These were then re-fitted back into the dome, and secured in place. I then hot glued the original LED’s back behind them.

Really happy with the new look.

Check these out at #celebrationeurope2023 next week 😎👍🏽

Reinventing the wheel……

😄😄😄 lol, yes…..aaaaaand no.

Back in April (last month)….

R5’s ride height has always been an annoyance for me over the years. Most noticeably at events on nice flat surfaces where I can clearly see the wheels. [for film appearance's 😎, this isn't so much of an issue]

Also the feet internals weigh quite a bit and they don’t support the floating foot shells very well.

So, I decided I needed to redo them to be lighter and lower.

Using my original internal feet frames, I drew the new versions up in AutoCAD inventor and then 3D printed out these test pieces.

This build structure is not new, but as buying the components might not fit my 'UNIQUE' foot shells, designing my own to fit made sense.

Above is first draft printed. The cut outs were just to save filament.

Test fit inside the foot shell.

And showing the reduced protrusion from the bottom of the shell.

I’ve ordered some aluminium plate, for the frames off eBay.

The first sheet of metal arrived.

Nice……👍🏽

Due to a family event, the funeral of my Grandmother who reaches 105years, the project was paused.

May 2022

Tuesday 3rd: was cutting aluminium plate day. I got out a hacksaw and started cutting out the main side plates.

I was also figuring out bolts, spacers and nuts.

Additional plates are on order, the two hashed areas on the 3D prints [above picture] are not needed so will be removed.

Found some suitable Stainless Steel tube, which will be great as the spacers.

I’ll be using M6 bolts and Nylock locking nuts, which I bought from local DIY store.

The steel tubing needed to be squared off at the ends, so used the lathe.

The bolts have washers both ends and locking nuts.

I drew up a shell support to help keep it from tipping over, as the shell 'floats' on the inner frame. This I 3D printed off to save weight. It's held in place by the longer bolts, washers, nuts.

Next up was creating retaining clips for the aluminium channel strip. First idea was hollow, but thought, it doesn’t have to be. So cut it in half and turned it into a clip, that snaps over the spacer tubing.

With the new frame layout, it will also be easier for me to access the ankle bolts, nut. On the original steel frame, I had the nut welded in place. Now, I’ve got nylock flanged nuts.

Next was to drill location holes for the front caster mounting, angle plates. And I positioned the caster to be more inline with the rear wheel.

And here’s the completed assembly, with motor and caster fitted. This whole assembly is so much lighter than the old one.

I have already made a start on cutting out the second set of plates. So this will come in a following post.

June 2022

Back in work after a short break away and back on with cutting out plates for foot no2.

….a rushed week of getting everything sorted before attending Saturday 18th’s event at Stars of Time, in Swindon’s steam museum. But got everything installed Friday night lol.

Event report to follow…..

Busy week: R5 motor bracket/3D designing and more….

 A busy week of building, buying, designing etc….

1:

R5’s second new foot motor bracket frame, needed completing: just needs some finishing tweaks, and 3D printed brackets for the channel plate.

2:

Been discussing in group chat about next year’s Star Wars Celebration , attending droid numbers etc.

3:

Been designing up ‘control panels’ for a side project idea. See coming post.

4:

Whilst researching I came across a video about the origins of R2’s PSI lenses. So a search on eBay and I managed to get a bargain for £6.00 GBP. Its a vintage Weston Masters two, photographers light meter.

The lens is bubbled on one side, but i was surprised to see that the honeycomb part was multiple layers of punched/stamped pieces, that were then rivited together.

R4-D4 dome - fitting Life-form scanner part 11

 Installed the LFS into the dome. Two counter bored holes were drilled to allow the two countersunk head bolts to sit down inside the edge, allowing the lid to be closed flush. These have nylock nuts on the inside.

The aluminium tube thin walls are easily bent, ever so slightly from being man handled and installed..... think these may have to be replaced with either solid bar or steel, if I can find the size. Also remembering the first tube I bought had a thicker wall, but was a lot more cost wise. I would of liked to (of) kept the tube as LED wires could be run up inside.

Of course I had to do a manual test of everything. The lift worked, but not as smoothly as previously (slightly bent tube), but the principle still works. The lid panel was already opened lol :D I then powered up the servo tester to 'sweep' the LFS.

Next is to look at the Pololu controller and figure out the best way to activate everything. Am thinking I might not need the micro switches.......???

A Life-form scanner for R5-D4 - Part 8

Final 3D printed parts fitted and everything works as it should. Really pleased with how it runs.

Now it’s onto the electrical side of the project. The micro switches need diodes soldered across the contacts. This is so they return the flow of power but switch off the motor. The idea is that the power lift servo is a one button activation:

• Press button, activates system.
• Motor lifts LFS, micro switch stops lift at top.
• Pololu control board activates scanner, set amount.
• Motor lowers LFS, micro switch stops lift at bottom.

This is the idea......have to see how it works out.

As promised, I’m putting a quick video together of this in action. I’ll post up the link to YouTube once complete.

A Life-form scanner for R5-D4 - Part 7

 Fine tuning the design of the lower servo holder & the servo/tube connector.

The new normal sized servo's holes were NOT the same as my previous one, so needed to be slightly moved. I added the slot in the support for the support tube and also added splines for point contact only. Both of these will be getting re-printed again.

The pulley wheel got a new version printed, happy with how it turned out and that it works.....of course it works lol :D

Then this morning Royal Mail pulled their finger out and I received the micro switches, second aluminium tube AND.......

........the Pololu servo control board, from Hobbytronics!

So after the re-prints, it's onto the electronics, tho I will be looking/designing a holder for the board and the electronics. Thingiverse came up trumps again, case will be printed later. I'll also post up pictures of the full assembly.

A Life-form scanner for R5-D4 - Part 6

 Design, 3D print, test fit.....& repeat lol.

All the bits fit so far, but I need to fit a second guide rail. I ordered another aluminium tube section to run parallel with the main one. This means more redesigning and printing of 3D parts, which I’ve already done.

The pulley cord arrived and a test of it showed it worked, but I needed to change the way it fixed to the winch wheel drum. I also needed to redesign the main holder and the bottom servo holder bracket. These are on the printer being printed.

For the scanner screen, I drilled some small holes in it and added white covered wire.

These will be glued in place later. Need to look at LED’s next.

A test of the pulley setup worked well, but the aluminium tube wall may cause problems as it is easily bent. This caused the guides to not run smoothly and the servo connection to the tube, broke. But this is all part of the design process.

Coin Slots - assembled

Thursday in work, I finished off the coin slots. Drilled holes in the pre-marked backing plate. Then positioned the centre lines on the backs of the coin slots under the holes and using a pillar drill, dilled into them. I then hammered in 'sel-lok pins' through the plate to secure the clots in place. Then I peened the pin ends over to secure. Not a pretty sight lol, I'll cover these over later.

Friday I was out with the family at a local event to watch the Royal Wedding. But in the back on my mind was a nagging thought. Were the base dimensions correct???
So that evening, I had to reassure myself that I had drawn them up in the correct position, as everything get's built around these!!

PHEW!! They were. Also the arms I' marked up, also fitted (length). It's one thing to follow a set of plans, but following more than one with a few 'modifications' thrown in, makes things......... interesting lol :-D

Coin Slots - Machined Pt2

Got in work at 7am today. As wanted to crack on with milling the rest of the angles and the coin slots.
Managed to break one slot milling cutter :-D lol and I was only taking a small cut as well.

Machined Coin Slots

Just need to drill and tap/drill and pin them onto the support plate.

I'm thinking about leaving the rads in the slots ??
I don't have a problem filing them out square, but thought it might me a nice touch, saying as the R5's were supposed to be a 'cheep' model.

Comments welcome please.

More Body work - Frame

Has been a productive Easter Weekend.
Friday, I cut a strip of aluminium plate, to mount the coin slots onto.

Also cut lower support section for it. Just needs outside curve trimmed.

Then cut out, drilled & fitted lower flat side supports.

Popped into B&Q Hardware Store, to see about material available to skin R5 with. Aluminium sheet, 3mm hardboard, flexible MDF ??? I like the idea of aluminium skin over the hardboard, strength with a 'real' aluminium skin. But they want around £40 for the aluminium plate & would need two plates to do front & back! So think I'll be going with the hardboard....... for now lol.

Saturday I only had 5mins to spare, so I trimmed & curved the lower coin support sections edge.

Then on Monday I was able to cut two rear upright frame supports & screwed them top & bottom. These will help with the wrapping around of the hardboard skin I'm hopeing to fit. Am also thinking there will be a rear access hatch.

Resisting the urge to stray onto other parts, I thought I should use up the material I have, so started on R5's skirt. Cut out lower 'ring' section, below..

Coin Slots - Machined Pt1

Managed to start machining up the coin slots at lunchtime. Cleaned up all the rough faces and put on the first side angles.

Machined, part 1.

Coin Slots

Cut the rest of the 'coin slot' blanks out, just need to machine them up.

Cut two lower side supports for the side flat parts of the body.

Coin Slots

On my lunchtime today I started working on a coin slot.

These I'll attempt to make individually and attach them to a back plate.

Rear Dome Rod

Started machining up the rear dome rod, or I will do once I can find some more material that's not three times the diameter I need!!

Dome Side Rods x2

Just finished machining up the second Side Dome Rod. The straight knurl looks better than on my first attempt, but well just say that's it's like that due to wear! lol

Dome Side Rod, picture update.....

There will be two of these. Due to material available, I had to make it in two parts. This actually made making it easier.

Side Dome Rod

Just need to finish the top half of the second Rod.