JUMBO Funko R5 - Part 2

December 18th continued:

Thursday after work, I set up the Tevo printer to print off the upper body section, hopefully from the point it stopped on Sunday.

I also re-setup my action cam to keep an eye on the printer.

Friday morning:

The upper part printed well, and by the looks of it may only of been a layer or two out.

After cleaning the print supports off, I glued the two halves together.

Next up was the dome, got home and after having some temperature issues with the filament, eventually got it printing…….only to realise that the file wasn’t the extra large version 😩😩😩. So won’t be doing any printing this weekend 😔😔😔.

Once the above had been rectified, printing began.

The filament is illumines lol as can be seen in the picture above. Yes, it’s R5’s dome.

And here are some assembled pictures of it. The dome isn’t glued on, there’s a lip that sits in the neck of the body.

To be painted……probably yes.

JUMBO Funko R5 - Part 1

 A week ago I had to drop my daughter off at a dance lesson, with an hour to kill I had a walk around the local shops. Mostly charity ones, these always have hidden items lol. To my amazement there was a FULL roll of filament for £5 UK pounds!

Then during the week, a chat with Mike about upcoming events and future build projects, I had the idea for this next print.

So i opened up Cura and swapped the printer view from the S5 to my Tevo print bed. I placed my 3 leg Funko R5 on it and played with the scaling. I was able to bump it up to 250% and it would just fit. Print time was about a day…..but I knew that wouldn’t be the case lol.

Thursday evening I set the printer going. But the filament wasn’t happy?? After a few starts, and even checking the bed height, I gave it a rest for the night.
Friday morning, before leaving for work, I had another go. This time I noticed that this filament required a higher temperature 😳😳😳 so after adjusting, things looked promising.

Here’s the progress over the few days:

Everything was going smoothly.

Woke up Sunday morning and found this…..

The printer was still going but printing in thin air 😩. The filament had tangled!

Nothing I can do about it till Monday when back in work. I’ll then have to slice the file to be able to print the rest of it.

Monday:

Decided to play around with the files, modified them to reduce excess material and filled in gaps that weren’t really visible on a 1:1 scale lol.

I then made a modified version, I removed the dome, and made it a push on fit (that can be glued on). This also will make the rest of the body print quicker and with less support material required.

All these updates will go into the other droid designs.

So now I have two separate files to print over the week/weekend.

This will be in the second part of this post.

Treadwell WED-15 droid build : Part 14

3D Printing:

March

I needed another way to operate the claw. The bowden tube idea using a metal guitar string, wasn’t working well enough 😢, but it still needed a servo to operate it.

I dug around in my servo box and remembered that I had this nano servo I bought back in 2020 for the ‘life form scanner’ project idea.

The claw’s motion only requires a light operation and the servo has just enough power to move it.

I redraw the end parts to accommodate fitting the servo inside it.

Exported the stl files to be able to print on the Tevo at home (works was already in use printing overnight parts). An hour print time for each half.

Only a few more adjustments to this design, one, making the tube the claw fits into, longer, another, to increase one side to make it thicker. Maybe another internal adjustment for the servo horn to have a bit more space.

The second version needed one more addition 😂 …..as I forgot to put in the slot for the servos tab. And before this got printed, I added holes for a brass threaded insert to secure the two half’s.

The carbon fibre tube got destroyed on trying to remove it, so I’ll be using a spare aluminium tube I had left over from the life form scanner project. Am thinking, the tube could be glued to one half of the unit and then screwed onto the other half, or it could be pinned in place.

Woodwork:

The base bottom board was screwed into place, again, counter sinking them.

I then used P40 (fibre glass resin) to fill in the gaps front and rear.

I needed to get some photos for celebration.

So I assembled most of WED together for this shot.

The base isn’t glued together yet, I’ll wait till I have the wheels and motors sorted out.

Electronics:

I ordered 10meters of servo lead so that I could make up my on lengths. I also found and ordered my new favourite tool lol.

I honestly don't know how I've managed over all these years 😂.

The nano servo plug needed to be removed so that it's contacts could be threaded through into the aluminium tube. I connected it up with a length of new servo lead, which I fed up through the upper arm and then into the mast.

I used some braided tubing to group together the other two new servo leads, one for the neck and one for the head/eye servo.

This was as far as I got with time restraints, and the other main project needed for Celebration, so WED-15 will just be a work in progress on display.

Treadwell WED-15 droid build : Part 13B - The Claw [actuation]

Just a small post, this refers to the Claw activation. It’s been a while, as have been working on a major side project and forgot to mention this (I think).

So the micro/nano servo I had bought a few years ago for R4’s ‘life form scanner’ was dug out of retirement 😂 and just like Obi-Won, found itself a new purpose.

These two images show the outside profile. The split line is down the vertical middle, two half's printed flat face down. The slot in the side is to view the servo [as why not lol] and the hole in the opposite side is the location for the M3 screw that fits into the Brass knurled insert, in the other half, to hold pieces together.

The 3D printed end piece I decided needed to be modified, away from being screen accurate, in order to be able to mount the servo inside of it.

👉👉👉YouTube link to it in action.

New droid project : Part 1 Treadwell droid WED-15-77

November Friday 4th 2022

The start of another droid, but not another Astromech. Something that there aren’t many of, especially here in the UK. Like R5, this droid has been a favourite for me for its unique design.

The Treadwell droid or ‘WED-15’ has it’s own section on ‘Rebel Droids forum’ for them. A few builders have sketched things up and there are some 3D stl files, but nothing complete in so much that there is not just one set of plans. So I’m going to combine these with my own idea’s, based on vintage film photos and other info, to create my own.

I will eventually produce PDF drawings with dimensions, for others to use and also upload the stl files, if everything works out lol 😆.

I made a start on producing the head component, in 3D AutoCAD Inventor, using dimensions off blueprints. The outside profile wasn’t to hard to reproduce, but the inside carved out section was a bit more of a challenge.

Then after a bit more editing, I decided to make a start on printing the head.

To save on time and not waist filament, I sectioned the head into two halves, so no support material required. I also printed two of the lens holder front pieces, as there was space on the print bed, and the print was going to be done over the weekend (works Ultimaker  S5 printer, free time).

The printer uses a 0.4 nozzle and all my prints this size are at 0.2 layer height.

Before I set the printer to produce a mirror version of this set, I first needed to do some tweaks to allow the front lens holders to sit into them properly as there is a recess in the front.

Tuesday (7th), morning, back in work to find the printed parts came out great (see above picture), the joining faces needed to be smoothed, and once done, the two halves were glued together.

As mentioned, the second tweeted set of two halves, was set to run overnight.

Wednesday (8th)

I made a start on drawing up the main head plate, that the eyes fix too.

Although this has cut outs in places, I didn’t want to risk my first print being structurally weak, so went with a solid plate design. To be honest, unless you really study the closeup pictures, this is not an easy detail to notice.

This piece was left to print overnight, along with some other detail pieces.

Thursday (9th)

The main head plate, printed great!

The one head pivot piece did as well, but I wasn’t 100% happy with the one fixing point (as I had drawn it up with two), so I redesigned this piece to have two location points. I was going to use bolts, but decided that it would be more convenient to draw up 3D printable pieces. So I drew up locking pins. These are a push fit and can/could be glued in place.

They have a flat edge so easy to print, but also they won’t bind up when fitting through the holes. The tabs are to help removal and can be removed if gluing in option is needed. These just needed a light sanding on the front edge.

I used a piece of metal tube which I will replicate as a 3D component, later on, as the main pivot bar. (See picture below).

And here is the main head plate assembly.

Friday (11th)

The locking pins were printed off.

After I had drawn up the head plate, on Wednesday, I made a start on the upper neck pivot ‘rings’. (Below picture)

Held off on printing this piece as wasn’t 100% happy with the size diameter’s, so I’ll do some more research over the weekend and compare with the blueprints. The above is a visual reproduction of the film droid.

#treadwelldroid #3Dprinting #autocadinventor #rebeldroids #thesearethedroidsyourlookingfor

‘Trading Card Dispenser’ control box - servo switch controlled

October 1st

Back at the beginning of the month, before I fitted the remote control, inside my transmitter, I had thought about utilising the servo activated switch module, that I’d bought for the GOUD-4 droid.

So I combined the bracket I’d designed up for it with a new saved version of the control box base.

wrong RC servo switch.....

Some other modifications were needed to accommodate the alternative model timer circuit board I’d bought, as well as doing away with the lid's side clips and replacing them with a brass knurled threaded insert. The lid section needed alterations to and the design of the slots was simplified. I did away with the LED ‘on’ indicator as it wasn’t necessary.

Have been test printing both in work and at home. It was good to use my printer that’s not been used in over a year. Dusted off the Tevo Tarantula Pro (Orange), fired it up, first print, perfectly just like always.

Probably should mention using online program, Astroprints for creating the gcode for printing on the Tevo.

UPDATE October 2024:

The RC servo switch seen in the above images was the wrong one!

I've updated with the correct RC switch, so for more I'll be posting up a new correct set of parts & 3D printable components. 

R5’s Bad Motivator : reincarnation (Part 3)

As mentioned in my previous post, Monday saw me start on drawing/creating the ‘Bad Motivator’ as i saw it in the movie, screen grab. See below.

There are some features that I can now see that I didn’t before, and these have already been captured by other already created designs. So these I’ve incorporated into my design as I believe them to be correct in my opinion, and scaled the other parts to better match (again, how I saw/see them) into my design.

The first design I wasn’t 100% happy with so altered it for version 2. I was going to print each component separately, but couldn’t be bothered lol, plus the combined part’s secured the motivator better as one. This would be great as a resin printed piece, but for now I’ll have to make do with my printer lol.

3D coloured rendering of new motivator.

I uploaded the file to Astroprint so that I could print out at home on my Tevo Tarantula. The printer is running already, hopefully this will be done by the morning.

(Astroprint is a free online program to convert stl files into gcodes for your chosen 3D printer)

13hrs later…… the print came out great 👍🏽

Wasn’t happy about the size/scale though so going to edit and reprint.

*** January 2025: link here added to the3D printable file ***

R5-D4's Bad Motivator system 2021 - Part 1.3

June 2021

Decided (last month May) that I was going to be the start of getting R5's

'Bad Motivator'

…….back installed again.

It all started waaaaay back in 2019 (part 1.0)........

....the door actuator needed replacing...... again!

The following past Blog links:

• Part 1.1
• Part 1.2

The design's were all from my early days of 3D designing components, so they needed some slight modifications and alterations for printing on my Tevo printer.

This new idea is to combine all the components onto the one assembly bracket, which is secured to the inside of the dome.

The solenoid holder needed a few changes, but the knowledge I have gained meant that the design itself was sound.

The bracket which supports the motivator and rail, had a notch in it from an earlier design. This I could use as a location point for the solenoid support bracket.

One thing I did have to change was the pivot position on the bracket arm. The solenoid activates in the pull position when powered on.

*****************************

The electricals needed re-doing as I will also be replacing the original 4 channel remote control with a two channel one.

This will operate the original Bad Motivator pop actuation, smoke/vape system....... and new for 2021.... (if all goes well)..... an amplifier/speaker/sound card to play the sound effects!

…..March 2022, thought I had posted this up last year 😂

The Mandalorian - R5D4 Holoprojector - 1.7

Eventually 👍 got round to uploading not one but two versions of the front part of the holoprojector.

One with a 'lens' and one without, so that a cabochon lens can be fitted. See pictures below 👍

I've added these to my PRUSA account.

https://www.printables.com/model/139667-r5-d4-holoprojector-the-mandalorian-season-2

3D Printed Badge Display's

 I wanted a display stand for my 26mm O/D pin badges. This one was my first test print but second design idea.

This stand has printed holes for the backing pins to fit through. The pins weren’t all in the same position though. So for the file release version, I’ll remove these holes. Simply press the pin into a piece of paper and then position it in the recess, then drill your hole, large enough so that the second spike part also fits through. I had to use a small piece of rubber sheet on the rear as one of the pins clasp wasn’t tight enough, but the others wouldn’t of fitted if the print was thicker.

Next up was to convert the design for two & one pin badge versions.

Link to my Thingiverse page,

.................where these will be going up on soon.

Funko pop R5-D4 astromech in Carbonite!

3D printing in progress....

9hrs 40mins to print.

No supports underneath as didn’t want to waste filament, see below for underside pictures.

And here's the finished

printed R5 in carbonite.

Swapped R5's base plate over to
properly stand this twin, in carbonite

Here’s the 'behind the scenes', underside, showing the unsupported area’s. Not to bad considering, would slowing down to allow more cooling of helped, maybe, but I’ll be drawing up and printing off a back panel to cover this all anyway.

I trimmed off the excess and then used my soldering iron to bond the ends etc.

Picture below is the back panel file I've printed off, I’ve now upload these files to my Thingiverse Etsy page HERE. [these will be available later today].

** A few idea's.....how about translucent print and then after painting, install pulsing red LED's to simulate the de-carbon freezing process.

OR..... simply install micro LED's or fibre optic's into the side control panels, just like in the film! **

Next up is PVA glue and spraying and weathering.....

Life-form scanner - R4-D4 - part 19

Back in.....May 7th 2021.....

Dug out the laptop and got playing with the Pololu servo controller program...... then had a refresh look at the instructions lol :D

Got the pie panel to open and close, great!

.....but the continuous rotation servo for the lift is going to take a bit of figuring out.

The connector sleeve for the LFS rod to servo, broke. So knowing a bit more about shell thickness for 3D printing [thanks YouTube lol] I made the wall's thicker, and also increased the bore diameter. The rod is now a much better fit and isn't as hard to push into the connector.

July 1st 2021

Hoping to get this all working on Sunday at the MOT Day, as Paul is a whiz with Pololu programing.

Remote control/wristband 'communication devices'

Finished these both off with Velcro attached to the straps.

Half hours worth of stitching by hand, sees both surfaces of the Velcro attached.

Am really please with how these have turned out. Of course how useful they actually are will be found out when they are actually used :D

Software used:

AutoCAD Inventor 3D [work program]

Astroprint [online slicing program]

*** UPDATE OCTOBER 2022 ***

The stl files are now available free on my Prusa account.

Blog link here.

Alternative 'RED' Boosters

Here’s the new ‘red’ Booster cover fitted on R5.

Just the ankle cylinder colours to change. These I think I'll just change by applying red vinyl.

And here's the link to the whole build/print process for them:

https://r5-d4astromechdroid.blogspot.com/2021/04/alternative-red-booster-colours-2021.html

Remote/wristband 'communication devices'

A while back I posted up that I had designed a clip mount remote control fob holder for R5’s ‘Bad Motivator’.

The idea being that it could be glued/Velcro’d to the transmitters rear, allowing hand’s free’ish control of the remote.

Well with all the new 3D models I’ve been drawing up, one of them was a version of a communication wristband from Solo.

The purpose of this was purely as a costume prop, but I soon realised that it could actually be of use as a remote control wristband holder.

So I started changing design dimensions to suit the stripped down remotes internals and the first 3D printed version came out great!

(I just need to design a front cover/panel for the buttons)

This version, above, has had a few more alterations, like a retaining lip and also a location for a Brass insert to be fitted to secure the front panel.

Next was to modify this second design version to suit the other remotes. This version I also drew up the cover/panel at the same time as the wristband.

And here it is......version 1....

The two holes on raised pads are for screws to secure the front panel on, via brass inserts.

I did some more alterations to accommodate the four button remote control I have. This version required the cover/panel to be more raised as this remote has raised, tactile switches, compared to the low profile, metal contacts of the above version circuit board. To combine the fitting of the cover/panel, the main wrist holder, now has a 'lip' for the panel to slid under. This helps secure the front better and requires only 1 screw.

The above picture shows them pre retaining lip and retaining screws.

The four button remote has been the hardest to get right. I've gone through more test prints on this version than any of the others.

I've also increased the 'shell' thickness to hopefully increase the strength of the wrist strap slots.

The 3D printing with increased shell thickness and a new curved strap slot, have made them stronger.

I’ve posted up a short video on my YouTube channel. Click the picture below to view link:

I’ve ordered some Velcro (as I couldn’t find my stash), this will be for the straps.