R5's Rear Hatch You Tube [picture] video

New You tube video made up from build photos for R5's rear hatch.

Click on the pic to link to vid

Front Vents - Fixing Bracket **UPGRADE** 2.1

Last night I wanted to mark and fit the top front Vent onto the brackets I had fitted ages ago, see Front Vents resin set post.

For whatever reason, rushing, it being late, not enough light in my garage..... I didn't notice that one of the two brackets I had fitted wasn't long enough to actually be secured to the Vent. So Plan 'B' is now in effect. This is actually how I thought I could of fitted them, just like the Power Couplers, in the first place lol.

So rummaged though scrap metal box and found some thin sheet metal. Measured, marked & cut a strip off. Then bent to shape and drilled fixing holes for it to be screwed to the inside frame.

The curved area along the bottom was so that only one of the Vents opening's won't be blocked. The one remaining, which can be seen in the picture below, will have it's opening traced onto the bracket, once it's been fitted and then this will be drilled out.

Next thing was to drill elongated holes [width ways, though not visiable] in the bracket and then drill and thread tap holes in the rear of the Vent. Am using M5 metric thread and hex socket head bolts.

Body Skin 3.7 - Rear Hatch **COMPLETE** & some more front panel grooving

Sanded the wood filler filling the gaps between the skin and second coin return. Then used small paint brush to 'touch-up' the filler. Next was to touch up the red panels around the edges. I added black paint ot the grooves and oter places as 'oil/dirt' marks.

The whole rear hatch was then sprayed with clear sealer & once dried, the Power Coulper was fitted and secured in place with it's bolt.

Grooved out and recessed the panel which will have the Restraining Bolt fitted to it. Also the Front Vent surround groove and also the Utility arms grooved surround.

Then sealed it with watered down PVA glue.

Before I finished up for the night, I bent some perforated metal that was just the right size.
This will be used for fixing the Coin Slots [front view] to it from behind & fixing to the frame.

Body Skin 3.6 - Rear Hatch 2nd Coin Return in place

I bonded on the second rear Coin Return, using P40 resin.
And then once dried, filled the remaining gaps with wood filler.

coin return on right, bonded in place

wood filler in gaps

Once dried and sanded, I'll paint the filler with silver paint to blend in.

Body Skin 2.1 Rear Hatch upgrade - GROOVES

Trimmed the Coin Returns with the Dremel & a file to square off the edges.

Then used P40 resin to fill the gaps I'd made for the hinges.

Once dried, I filed them flat and square.

Also filled in a few of the countersunk screw holes with wood filler.

----------------------

Then marked out in pencil, the rest of the rear panels for where the grooves will go.
Then with a steel rule and my trusty Stanley knife, I scored lightly along the lines to create the grooves, next I found a lath tip tool in work with the right width to be able to 'chisel' out the grooves to depth. And carefully scooped them out.


The first attempt is on the Coin Return....... 

This shows the grooves in a poor light 

It just takes off a thin layer of the hardboard to the depth of the score line. The scoreing and 'chiselling' out on these two panels has taken me over half an hour, well, I don't want to rush.
This is going to be a long job lol

R5-D4's Body Skin 1.7 [Power Coupler 1.4]

Sprayed coin returns 1 & 2 (of 3) silver. Found the white made the silver appear lighter, better than the grey primer.

Sprayed up the second Power Coupler blue. Masked off the main part and sprayed. The internal parts I again, painted with a small brush. I then 'dirtied' up both with black paint. Which gives the same effect as on my Restraining Bolt. I cut out the lower rear panel, square hole, to accept the rear Power coupler and also the third coin return opening [left of picture].

Rear Power Coupler

Front Power Coupler

I sprayed a few clear coats on the first lower side flat panel.

R5-D4's Body Skin 1.6 [Power Coupler 1.3]

Cut out a recess in the base to accept the power coupler.

Not the most tidy'est of work, but it works lol.

Did some more spraying:
Primer sprayed up the coin returns No1 & 2 of 3. Later to then spray them white.
Primer sprayed up one of the lower side flats. Later to then spray them both in white.

Gave the second Power coupler a coat of silver.

And here's the front Power Coupler and front Coin Return, mock-up.

Power Coupler's 1.2

Sprayed power coupler silver. Then on with the blue


Also had to trim some more of the power couplers tabs for it to fit to MY frame work. Next, the blue outside bits, I simply masked off and also used a circle piece of cardboard. Then gave a few coats of blue. My blue that I've been using is Plasti-kote metalic blue 135S (the image does look blue, more purple). 

Bent some strip metal into a bracket to hold the coupler in place. Drilled and taped a 5mm hole in the back centre of the coupler. Then screwed a small bolt through the bracket to secure. Then screwed the bracket to the base and frame.

For the inner blue parts, I sprayed the blue into a spare spray can lid and then used a file paint brush. Results...... not to bad. Any mistakes will be covered up with 'weathering' paint.

R5-D4's Body Skin 1.5, [Power Coupler's 1.1]

Started to cut out the five vertical slots in the lower front recessed vent. Two now done. Again, it was late, so used a Stanley knife to score/cut through, being carefull not to let it slip!!!

I then marked up a piece of hardboard that will fit behind the slots, re-enforcing the area and also it will be sprayed blue.
Cut the front location for the front Power Coupler. I also trimmed the lower [internal] lip, off the Coupler to aid fitting of it at a later date [see last picture, primer sprayed]. The Base needs to have a recess to accomadate the rear diameter of the Coupler.

R5's skin with another hole. The blacked area inside the hole is what I have to 'cut-out'.

Power Coupler, straight out the box, but with the lower lip cut off.

Power Coupler, 1st coat, sprayed with primer.

 Next is to cut out a recess in the base for the Couplers to fit.

Power Coupler's 1.0 - Bought Set

These came today. I had planned on making these, but with changes to R5's skin build, led me to the decisson that I would need these lol. And I also wanted these to look right. So bought these from Don Jarr on ebay.

I'll bought two set's previously from this supplier, as the quality is excelent! And his prices are also very reasonable.

R5-D4 Body Skin 1.4 - Rear Hatch Section

Cut to length 1st up-right that will form part of the rear hatch. Next I marked up and using a jigsaw, cut out the two curved pieces that will form the rear door. Then used my rasp plane to smooth and shape. This is great for removing material.

Sanded & smoothed curves to size. Trimmed hatch curves & up-right (length shortened). Screwed all together. Fitted the hinges I'd bought earlier 99p (no screws with them). Used a magnet off a 'built-in' washing machine kitchen unit door, fixed to a piece of metal strip, screwed to rear hatch up-right. Then drilled a counter-sunk hole & using resin, stuck a washer in place. Before I measure up the skin for rear hatch, I need to look into the strength of the lower rear panel. Since cutting out the power coupler hole, the strength has been reduced & is also not keeping the curve as before. I may have to make a full length rear hatch.

Hinge 1 of 2

Washer for magnet door look

Washing machine door magnet

Rear Hatch

Rear Hatch

Rear Hatch