24/12/2012

......MERRY CHRISTMAS 2012.......

To all those reading my R5 Build Blog,
I would like to send you Seasons Greatings from me &......
BLEEP, BLEEP, BLEEP is R5 saying Ho, Ho, Ho

a Merry Christmas from R5
:)

15/12/2012

Outer Feet 1.0 - C.A.D. design work

Been meaning to do this for a while, just not had the free time. I drew up the Centre Foot in Inventor 3D, it's a Computer Aided Design program.
 
This is because the plans are dimensioned as if you were measuring a completed object and not how they should be, which, is as if each piece was dimensioned as an individual component.
 
I made this mistake when following the plans to make the Centre Foot! So I drew up the centre foot to compare these dimensions to that of my own, then I drew up the Outer foot so that these will be built to a similar size/scale to the Centre Foot.
Most builders probably don't have this issue as they buy the foot sheel's pre-moulded.But for us building from scratch builders, it's not very helpfull :)
3D Inventor image of Outer Foot shell
 

Main Leg 2 - 2.4 - Ankle work [bracelet & wedge]

Ankle
I marked out the curve section needed on the two blocks I'll be using to make up the ankle. I also marked where I need to drill counter sunk holes to fix them to the leg.
Image is from first Leg build

Did this then screwed them on. Next I used my trusty saw to cut chunks off to shape. Then I used a file to smooth over. I then used dowel cut to length to plug the screw holes. The next step was to apply wood filler all over and sand all over....again.
Image is from first Leg build

Had a 'lost item' moment last night. I couldn't find my Ankle Cylinder Holder ????? I'd taken it out of the storage tin to remind myself what needed to be done, if anything, to it. Then........it was gone!?!?! I'd had a bit of a tidy up to make some space and yes, you guessed it, it had fallen into my box of off-cuts! Phew....... :D

Ankle Braclet:
Marked out the Ankle Bracelet for the 2nd leg & cut it out. Then measured my leg and cut the inside of the Ankle Bracelet to fit it. I then marked up and drilled a location hole for the Leg Strut to fit into. Next up I applied watered down PVA glue all over and allowed this to soak in and dry. This hardens the wood and seals the cut edges, which stops the spray paint from being absorbed into the wood and gives a better finish.
Image is from first Leg build. Wood filler to underside of bracelet

I then applied wood filler to the underside of the Ankle Bracelet, that may be visable to anyone on all fours looking up underneath R5, lol. This will smooth over the textured underside of the hardboard :). I then fitted the Booster Strut in place and secured the support angle with a screw. The bottom of the strut fitted into the hole in the Ankle Bracelet. Some wood filler was applied to the gap between the bracelet and the lower ankle area.

Ankle Wedge:
Cut out a piece of 3mm hardboard to make the ankle wedge front panel. I angled the back faces to fit flush up against the angle face of the ankle and the curved part of the cylinder. Next I applied masking tape all over the cylinder & angled face of the ankle and applied p40 resin to fill the gap & build the sides. Once dried, this new piece came away easily and was then ready for trimming of the excess P40 resin and then filling any gaps with wood filler. Once all this was dried, I drilled and screwed the new Ankle Wedge and also the Cylinder holder onto the Ankle Cylinder. Once painted, these become a one piece item which is then held on the leg via the fixing method mentioned in prev post.
Image is from previous wedge build. This image shows sides and P40 resin.
For the last wedge, I didn't use sides.
The weather has been very cold, so build time has been limited, hence lack of photos. I will take some up-to-date ones soon.

27/11/2012

Ankle Cylinder for Main Leg No.2 - 2.1


Whilst waiting for the wood filler to dry on the Leg. I got to work on making up the end caps and location discs' I use to fix the Ankle Cylinder onto the leg. I then cut out the end pieces, angles them and will screw them onto the end caps.

Here are some links to what I did before. link to prev. works & link to end caps

The fixing design is not my idea, I have just copied it and modified it to suit my build :).

Main Leg 2 - 2.3

T-nuts are now in place so I test fitted the leg studding through the body, shoulder discs & into the Leg. Thightened up the internal nuts, pulling the studding tight onto the T-Nuts [fitted inside the leg]. Once happy, I fitted all the screws in place, clamping the leg sections together. Next I attached the rear & front ankle plates, that thicken up the ankle. Before I went any further, I opened out the hole in the Leg to accept the Shoulder Hub, as I'd forgot to do this the other day, lol. I then added aluminium strips as guides to the side edge of leg & started to apply wood filler. Also applied to the ankle side edge & edge of shoulder radius. Once dried I started to file flat any high spots.

21/11/2012

Main Leg 2 - 2.2


Main Leg 2 secured ready for holes to be marked




Under Shoulder Stabiliser sockets & cable channel view
Leg holes being drilled for T-Nuts to be fitted
First I marked and cut the recesses which will be for the Under Shoulder Stabiliser sockets.
Screwed the cut out centre section, to allow cable to be routed through the leg, all together with it's inside & outside parts. Next I screwed the lower rear piece onto the ankle area. I then marked and cut these off.

last night I then fixed both legs onto R5's body, via shoulder hubs (discs). Then new leg was held in place with a single studded bar, whilst it was angled and its leg holes were marked ready for drilling. Dia 12mm holes were then drilled through the 'inside' part of the leg.  The 'middle' part had clearance holes drilled for the 'T-Nuts' to fit. I also drilled a hole through all for the centre hub to fit in.

18/11/2012

Main Leg 2 - Cutting wood - 2.1

Whilst waiting for the primer to dry, I got to work on cutting out main leg number 2. Its been marked up on the wood for months. But due to working on other parts, plus not having a free hour or so (in the day) to cut out with the jigsaw, as it does make a racket, I finally got it done. Now I 've got it cut I can get on with creating it.
R2D2 Leg
Template screwed down onto board
 
R2D2 Leg
Stage 1 of build
Next will be to cut a channel in the centre piece to allow the motor cable to pass through.
I already have the ankle curved section cut out, just needs to be curved.

Body Skin 4.4 - More white paint

Well after masking off the utility arms & Octagon Port & other pre-sprayed areas,
I sprayed the skin inside and out with primer.
 
R2D2 Body skin build
Before going in after finishing up, (see Main Leg No2, post) 
I got out the white spray and gave the body a coat.
R2D2 Body Skin build
It looks great, will need a few more coats, but its a start :)

14/11/2012

Booster Cover 2.3 - The second Leg

As I said the other day, been working when I can on R5's body and also his second Booster Cover. Here are some photos so far.
Here you can see the cardboard 'frame' I made up and the first application of wood filler.
And here's the end result, and after sanding with a tube to get the curve.
As I was spraying some other parts, I sprayed up the Cover, to help show up area's I might of missed with the wood filler.
Filler in the gaps.
 

Body Skin 4.3 & Octagon Port 2.5

Body Skin 4.3
Have started to apply masking tape over the Utility arms. I'll then mask off other areas that I don't want primer on. Then spray up the utility arm area & sockets and also re-do all the other areas of the body that have had wood filler applied to smooth over.

picture of arms starting to be masked off


Octagon Port 2.5
Front Octagon Port fitted inside the body, masked off and area sprayed with primer.

Here is the front Octagon Port after I'd sprayed the area around it white.
This will also be covered, to prevent over spray inside of the port.

Here is the rear Octagon Port, now secured in place with it's angle bracket. It just needs P40 resin applied around the edges, inside the body and then wood filler to the front edges/gaps.
Rear Octagon Port.
 

11/11/2012

A small update......

Not been able to do much work on R5 these last few weeks, which is a little frustrating. Family holiday, decorating the home, health issues to deal with. But I have managed to do a little bit here and there.

Booster Cover
I made up two cardboard boxes, wrapped with selotape, and applied wood filler around them to make the two recessed areas of the curved section. Have to sand the curve in and see how it holds up. Attempt two will be P40 resin, as on cover no1.

R5's Body
I sprayed the lower area of the body with white paint, mainly around the front Octagon Port. This is so that I can touch up the Port itself with blue paint. I still have other areas to primer spray still, but this way I'm still able to do little bits. Once all the primer has been applied, I'll mask off areas and give R5 some more coats of white. Am not to fussed with him not being perfect, all this will (I hope) just add to the weathered & used look.

Octagon Port (rear, No2)
I've cut to size the angle bracket needed to secure the rear octagon port in place. These aren't really needed, but they do help secure the centre aluminium piece of the port and will aid the port from potentially being 'pushed' through into the body. The area inside the body will of course be bonded to the octagon port with P40 resin as well.

Battery Power
Lastly, I've put on charge a 12v 17amp battery, I found I still had lol. It was out of a not so good car jump starter pack! It may/will come in handy, and if nothing else, it is giving me an idea as to the kind of weight R5 will have inside him.

22/10/2012

Booster Cover 2.2 - the second leg.....

Sanded the wood filler, all over the Booster Cover. And then using my Coping saw, I cut out the centre part of the 'Dog House'. I then bonded it onto the Booster Cover using P40 resin. Once this is dried, I'll file/sand it all smooth and then apply wood filler and then repeat.
Booster Cover R5-D4

Booster Cover R5-D4

Marked and cut out the four vertical grooves at the bottom. Drilled and screwed, from behind, the top section. I then marked the curves and using a coping saw, cut the curve out. I then covered the lot in wood filler & have started sanding......all over. lol.
R2D2

R2D2

15/10/2012

Booster Cover 2.1 - the second leg.....


Cut the other angle, then marked & cut out the centre section.
Filed surfaces, applied wood filler where needed. A knot in the wood needs seeing to!
Then started on marking & cutting to size the 'Dog House' piece.
Booster Cover

Booster Cover
Booster Cover with centre section cut out.
Booster Cover
Booster Cover with Booster Strut & 'Dog House' piece
Booster Cover
Close up of 'Dog House' section

12/10/2012

Booster Cover 2.0 - the second leg.....


Haven't had much time at home to work on R5 & until I get a chance to cut out the pieces for the second main leg, I'm a bit stuck there too. So thought I'd start on the Booster Cover, as this is something I can do in work on my lunchtime.

Started on cutting the booster cover to size. The top sloped section is a separate piece of wood. This will have the slots added later. As I did on the other Booster Cover, I'll 'build' this up with P40 resin and box off the slots. Next, I cut the sloped side faces.


30/09/2012

Body Skin 4.2 - Primered up!!

I know I should of done this before fitting the Utility Arms & Octagon Port, but I got carried away with figuring out how best to fit them. So before I do anythin else I've started on primer spraying up R5's body. I masked off the Skirt, Utility Arm area & the front Octagon Port.
Then started spraying.


The masking tape was to stop the arms from opening when I was moving the body :)

Although smooth'ish, the recessed panels still need some wood filler to smooth them out more, to my liking.
Next will be light sanding of primer and wood filler and then apply more primer.

Restraining Bolt - upgrade

Having read posts on forms about the origins of the 'Restraining Bolt' and it probably being a camera lense/adaptor of some sort. I decided to upgrade my own bolt by addeding a straight knurled edge around the outer most diameter.
 
The link below will take you to info about this find.

I still might add a drill hole to the front of the Bolt.

Octagon Port 2.4 - Rear Port build

Used masking tape to cover over the back plate, then marked out the slots to be cut out. Using a Stanley knife, I scored and removed these pieces.

Rough cut out of skiin for rear octagon port.
 
Then primer spray, blue & then clear to finish. Next is to make the side walls.
I also roughly cut out the hole for the Octagon Port in the body, but due to my not so accurate frame build, I needed to cut into the rear upright.

Octagon Port 2.3 - front now fitted into body

Screwed angle bracket into base to hold in place (no picture), then applied P40 resin around the outside edge of the Octagon Port and skin, inside the body. Once this had dried, I started filling in the gaps with wood filler. Sanding and more filler was then applied to build up the areas.

 

26/09/2012

Octagon Port 2.2 - photos

Here are pictures of my 1st Octagon port almost complete. Just need to fix the sides in place and then install. There will be additional work to fill in gaps, smooth off and paint touch up's.




1st Octagon Port almost finished. 2nd Port's back panel now cut out and ready for marking up.

Utility Arms 1.7 - Arm No2

Wood filler, sanding, more filler, more sanding, primer, filler, sanding, last lot of primer.
Next white Satin coat of paint. Then Metalic Red, followed by clear top coat.
And Utility Arm No2, is complete.

Rear perforated mesh, painted black also fitted. You can see through, because the rear hatch wasn't fitted at the time.