'R0' dome build - 2.0 'Skin pt2'

30th April 2016

I marked out the second part of the dome skin. I cut out more, around the edges, than I need as this helps with curving the material. The strapping down is the hard part!! But I got it held in place eventually lol.

In these pics you can see where the wood fiber doesn't like the tight curve asked of it. Thankfully though, it holds and these will be sanded out and later watered down PVA will be applied all over to soak in and strengthen the wood. This also helps prevent the spray paint soaking in so much.

I left this strapped up for a few days.

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May Bank Holiday and I was able to get on with some more work.
Using the original vertical upright template, I cut two brackets. Next was to cut an angle onto the leading edge so that it matches the skin curve. Then they were screwed into place.

I realised that I'd screwed them to high up, so re-positioned them lower down, so the bottom of the skin would have something to be fixed to.

I had already cut out the skin, so positioned it centrally on the vertical and started to screw it into place. Working my way round both sides, top and bottom.

Then I clamped the extra edge down (no picture), marked where to cut and scored with Stanley knife to cut to size. Whilst doing this, I also trimmed the top skin edge.

Then screwed it down the first edge.

 Looks a bit uneven, but nothing that can't be fixed with filler.

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3rd May 2016
Got my new dremel cutting discs today, and these came just in time! I used one to trim the edge off the end skin to be able to butt up against the first skin edge. I then screwed it down.

Next I started to sand the join to make it smooth and blend together.

'R0' dome build - 1.9 'recessed boxes'

Using Lars' plans as a guide to help with my wood build. I marked and cut out the inner pieces to make up the recessed box.

Drilled one large hole for the dome rod to fit into and a smaller one for a screw to secure in place. This one goes at the top for easy access. Lol, learned my lesson when doing R5 :-D.
The lower larger one will be fitted with a piece of wood to stop it dropping through.

Applied PVA wood glue and clamped box in place.

Once dried I added wood filler to the gaps

And some glue to the rear joints to soak into the gaps.

The plan is to cover these and joins with fiber glass matt for strength and security.

'R0' dome build - 1.8 'Skin - recessed boxes'

27th April

I checked the off-set needed so that the recessed boxes, wouldn't interfere with the internal verticals. Once happy, I marked the first box.

Cut out the first hole for the recessed boxes (3 off).

Then I measured and marked up the strips that will be the skin recess/step. I roughed up the smooth surface a bit with sandpaper first before I applied wood glue and whilst letting it to set a bit, I grabbed some scrap wood and my G-clamps and glued them in place, one at a time.

Next (pic below) on with the second side.

For the upper and lower pieces, I cut vertical slots in the back face, to help them bend a bit to the dome curve.

Then roughed them up with sandpaper before glue and clamping into place.

These have held really well (I sound surprised, lol) The opening is a lot stronger and once the rear recessed boxes are in, will be super strong.

'R0' dome build - 1.7 'Radar Eye'

26th April

Picked up a tub of P40 glass fibre bridging resin, to fill out the back of the radar eye. I added some more cardboard where it was needed and once happy, started to mix up small amounts and applied to first area.

I slotted some cardboard into the data slot just to keep it open.

Second lot of resin applied to right side area next...

And here's one in colour, so you can see the resin lol

Made me chuckle looking at the front & lid of the P40 tub, as the 'un-offical' image of an MG Meastro lol, and the instructions have not changed since 1985!!
.........once fully cured, I trimmed off the excess.

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Taped down a sheet of course sandpaper and holding the radar eye as horizontal as possible, moved it from side to side, then vertically. I kept testing on the panel next to it for fit, no wobble an minimal gaps.

I then applied filler to the edges to sit flush with the dome.

'R0' dome build - 1.6 'Skin'

April 23rd 2016

So I made a start and drilled & screwed in place the top ring. I then marked a line on the dome skin and used panel pins to secure in place. I then started to work my way round the edges.

That's when I realised that the skin WASN'T going to fit, edge wise! My working out messed up somewhere?? Thought I was going to get the skin to fit.

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Decided to cut my losses with the skin not being correct and cut off the excess.

Next was to cut out a second piece for the other half of the dome.....

'R0' dome build - 1.5 'Radar Eye'

April 22nd 2016

I thought I'd see what all this 3D printing stuff is all about lol.

My Bosses Boss, recently bought herself a 3D printer and offered to print different stuff to test the machine. So I found an STL R2 radar eye and she was kind enough to print it off.

Material is PLA, which on reading up is not the best if you want a good surface finish.....on the radar eyes front face, lol. Never mind. Nine hours later and I have a radar eye printed.
Just needed to be filed and sanded, filered and re-sanded to get a good smooth surface finish on the front faces.

The 3D file was not 100% correct. These little details were corrected tho.

Next was to build up the rear to meet the domes surface. I used car body repair resin, once I had boxed in the sides etc. Added some cardboard to the side's and inner faces.

The cardboard gives a rough idea of the level needed to be filled so the Radar Eye sit's flush with the dome.

'R0' dome build - 1.4 'Neck Skin' fitting

Tuesday 20th April
Missed measured the outer skin width, so needed to trim it down by 3mm. As I don't have a dremel cutting wheel, it was out with the metal cutting saw blade (used for cutting metal, but the teeth are small enough not to tear the wood).

 Bout 25mins later, I'd finished.

Next, was positioning the neck strip so the join would be at the back. I measured up from the bottom edge 10mm and then evenly spaced out the panel pins. I put a few more into the end of the strips where they joined.

As you can see from the last picture, the strip end still doesn't want to curve to the frame just yet.

'R0' dome build - 1.3 'Skin & frame'

Saturday 16th April
Here's the cone shape so far, pics 1 & 2 below. This is how my R5's dome looked at this stage so the form is looking good.

I put the cone inside the dome base hole to hold while I got on with the electrical work.
Pic 3 below.

Cut out centre piece from base.

Using the disc cut out, I measured the distances on R5's body (rotation ring location bolts) and transferred them to the new base ring. I then drilled dia 8mm holes to start & check correct position. 

Started to pin the inner neck ring into place.

Cut a length of board for outer neck diameter. And strapped to form curved shape.

...............I tried to curve the dome skin more, but the wood started to tare. So I will need to make a second section of skin, to make it in two halves

Bad Motivator - electronics/electrical work UPDATE 2

So Saturday I set up the electrics so I could easily work on them outside of R5's body.

excuse the hanging regulator, [mid left] this was just a wired up to test

I tested the new regulator and the bad motivator board worked.

Then I connected up the slip ring into the circuit, all good still.

Next, I connected up the door actuator ......and it didn't work properly!

Then realised I was using the old one.....so swapped it for the new one and, YES, it works. No fluttering! So I now know the old actuator is broke, cause tho??? We'll see how long this new one lasts.

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Sunday I fitted R5's dome onto his body and re-tested everything.

Test one, motivator and smoke system work perfectly.
Test two, again, all works.
Test three......smoke yes, actuator not so great!?!?!

It activated and moved a little, but then stopped, not completing it's full travel.
And it also felt warm, need to look into this further.....