Body Skin 2.2 - GROOVES & primer

On my lunchtime I managed to get another two panels 'grooved'. Then at home spent another 2 & a half hour's doing the rest, plus going over the previous grooves and sanding over the skin. Next I re-counter sunk the screws and then used wood filler to fill them in. Once all that was done I mixed up some PVA glue with water and 'painted' it into the grooves (credit for this has to go to Mr A.Strawson). This is soaked into the wood and helps 'seal' the cut groove edges and makes the spray adhere.

Once it was all dried I gave it a light coat of grey primer.
R5-D4 rear hatch
1st coat of primer


Body Skin 2.1 Rear Hatch upgrade - GROOVES

Trimmed the Coin Returns with the Dremel & a file to square off the edges.

Then used P40 resin to fill the gaps I'd made for the hinges.
Once dried, I filed them flat and square.
Also filled in a few of the countersunk screw holes with wood filler.


Then marked out in pencil, the rest of the rear panels for where the grooves will go.
Then with a steel rule and my trusty Stanley knife, I scored lightly along the lines to create the grooves, next I found a lath tip tool in work with the right width to be able to 'chisel' out the grooves to depth. And carefully scooped them out.

The first attempt is on the Coin Return....... 
This shows the grooves in a poor light 

It just takes off a thin layer of the hardboard to the depth of the score line. The scoreing and 'chiselling' out on these two panels has taken me over half an hour, well, I don't want to rush.
This is going to be a long job lol


Body Skin 2.0 Rear Hatch upgrade

Drilled out area for Power Coupler & Coin Returns, roughly.

Tested the second catch, but it wouldn't let the top of the hatch line up. Probably due to frame/skin/hatch misalignment. So took it off. I did add an inside depth stop. This & the spacer i fitted on the other side, helped with alignment.

I cleaned up the Power Coupler hole in the skin. I then bent up a strip of metal. Marked hole positions & drilled holes for securing to frame & backside of Power Coupler. 
Threading the rear Power Coupler for fixing to metal bracket
Rear Power Coupler fixed in place with the metal bracket
This then makes it easier and gives clear access to the insides of R5...... erm once he's filled up with stuff :)

Next is to do the two Coin Returns.


Body Skin 1.9 Rear Hatch upgrade

bought some catch's and magnetic holders and some angle brackets from Wickes. These are intended for the rear hatch.

Had an idea on how to secure the rear hatch (lol, yeah buy stuff, THEN figure out how to use it!)

I used some blocks out of wood off-cut. Then after smoothing the edges, I drilled & screwed them to the inside edge of the uprights. I then screwed the metal plates onto them. Except I ran out of screws. The ones they came with were a waste of someones time!! Once new screws were bought, they were all screwed into place........... see below Plan B.

This fist idea didn't pan out to well. So went onto plan B. After cutting two small lengths of wood, these were fitted to the lower inside hatch frame. These support the skin. They also now have the catches fitted. The contact clip was screwed to the base.


R5-D4's Body Skin 1.8 Rear Hatch upgrade :D

Been looking at R5's rear hatch and my attempt at a separate lower section panel.The wood curved and kept it's shape well, when it was a solid piece. But since cutting out the Power Coupler and Coin Return slots, it has become much weaker! Rather than attempt to add extra strengheners behind to help keep it's curve, I am going to remove it completely and combine it all onto the rear hatch. As like most normal people have done :P lol.

Measured up and marked out new rear hatch. Cut notches out for hinges.

Drilled and screwed, hinge side, of rear hatch skin to hatch frame. Then bent skin around & clamped other end to skin frame.  Then used my straps and a clamp to hold the skin around the frame, then drilled & screwed in place. Marked edge to then trim to fit. Drilled & pressed in some panel pins to help shape the edges of the panels. All these & the screws, I am planning on hiding with filler.

I removed the magnet locking as this wasn't allowing the hatch's skin to sit flush with the main body. Also need another locking/closing mechanism.
Rear Hatch
Rear Hatch
Am not happy with the hinges being visible, so my intention is I am going to move them to be hidden under the skin. Then fill in the notched areas with resin. As you can see in the top picture (taken this morning), the hinges now don't allow the hatch to fully close ??


R5-D4's Body Skin 1.7 [Power Coupler 1.4]

Sprayed coin returns 1 & 2 (of 3) silver. Found the white made the silver appear lighter, better than the grey primer.

Sprayed up the second Power Coupler blue. Masked off the main part and sprayed. The internal parts I again, painted with a small brush. I then 'dirtied' up both with black paint. Which gives the same effect as on my Restraining Bolt. I cut out the lower rear panel, square hole, to accept the rear Power coupler and also the third coin return opening [left of picture].
Rear Power Coupler
Front Power Coupler

I sprayed a few clear coats on the first lower side flat panel.


Tee-Threepio: Human Cyborg Relations:

Tee-Threepio: Human Cyborg Relations: "Is there anything I can do?"

Hello, droidfunders! Well, another day has passed but for a change, we've had two generous donations that have pushed us up to 68% now.  (click link to view more)

The good thing is we're well ahead of the day counter, and if I divide the remaining figure to be raised (£640) by the number of days left (36) the average I need to raise is only £17.77.

Check out and support if you can, a fellow builders journey to build Threepio!


R5-D4's Body Skin 1.6 [Power Coupler 1.3]

Cut out a recess in the base to accept the power coupler.

Not the most tidy'est of work, but it works lol.

Did some more spraying:
Primer sprayed up the coin returns No1 & 2 of 3. Later to then spray them white.
Primer sprayed up one of the lower side flats. Later to then spray them both in white.

Gave the second Power coupler a coat of silver.

And here's the front Power Coupler and front Coin Return, mock-up.
R5-D4 Power Coupler


Power Coupler's 1.2

Sprayed power coupler silver. Then on with the blue

Also had to trim some more of the power couplers tabs for it to fit to MY frame work. Next, the blue outside bits, I simply masked off and also used a circle piece of cardboard. Then gave a few coats of blue. My blue that I've been using is Plasti-kote metalic blue 135S (the image does look blue, more purple). 

Power Coupler Astromech Droid R2 Unit R5-D4

Power Coupler Astromech Droid R2 Unit R5-D4

Bent some strip metal into a bracket to hold the coupler in place. Drilled and taped a 5mm hole in the back centre of the coupler. Then screwed a small bolt through the bracket to secure. Then screwed the bracket to the base and frame.

For the inner blue parts, I sprayed the blue into a spare spray can lid and then used a file paint brush. Results...... not to bad. Any mistakes will be covered up with 'weathering' paint.


R5-D4's Body Skin 1.5, [Power Coupler's 1.1]

Started to cut out the five vertical slots in the lower front recessed vent. Two now done. Again, it was late, so used a Stanley knife to score/cut through, being carefull not to let it slip!!!

I then marked up a piece of hardboard that will fit behind the slots, re-enforcing the area and also it will be sprayed blue.
Cut the front location for the front Power Coupler. I also trimmed the lower [internal] lip, off the Coupler to aid fitting of it at a later date [see last picture, primer sprayed]. The Base needs to have a recess to accomadate the rear diameter of the Coupler.
R5's skin with another hole. The blacked area inside the hole is what I have to 'cut-out'.
Power Coupler, straight out the box, but with the lower lip cut off.
Power Coupler, 1st coat, sprayed with primer.
 Next is to cut out a recess in the base for the Couplers to fit.


Power Coupler's 1.0 - Bought Set

These came today. I had planned on making these, but with changes to R5's skin build, led me to the decisson that I would need these lol. And I also wanted these to look right. So bought these from Don Jarr on ebay.

I'll bought two set's previously from this supplier, as the quality is excelent! And his prices are also very reasonable.

Leg Assembly 2.3 - Hub hole

Finished the outer hub hole diameter cut-out over a month ago now. Used a cutting tip that came with the router adaptor. I forgot I had. This cut through the wood so much easier :)
Next I needed to cut the inner recess to depth. So that the Hub would sit flush with the leg.
I used the cutter I bought off e-bay a few weeks ago.
Adjustable Circle Hole Cutter

Started to cut through from the front, then turned the leg over to finish the cut from the other side, as the cutter holders would of damaged the outer hole on the front face.
Shoulder Hub, recessed into the Leg.