29/11/2011

Main Leg 1.4, Ankle Wedge 1.4 Centre Leg build update

Spent 2.5hrs working on leg. Sanding then more wood filler. Made the counter sunk holes bigger on five of the screw holes. Then filled with wood filler.
counter sink holes made deeper
Once dried, more sanding. Also applied wood filler to fill in the wood grain surface.
Mixed up some more P40 body filler and fi0lled in the back of the seconed ankle wedge. I then got to work on re-shaping the resin in the back of the first wedge. Once happy with the fit, I marked its position on the ankle cylinder and removed the cylinder from the centre leg. I then drilled through from the inside of the cylinder up into the resin in the back of the wedge & secured it in place with a screw. I repeated this with the second cylinder & wedge, once the resin had dried.
There is a screw (that you can't) see securing the taped up wedge onto the cylinder
I then masked of the wedges and sprayed them with grey primer.
Wedge masked off and primed
wedge time taken, about 1hr.

Next Day = Once they were dry, I sprayed them blue

And then once dry, I sprayed them clear and also the centre leg.

Centre Leg complate, with cylinders and wedges

 Am pleased with work so far.

22/11/2011

Ankle Wedge build 1.3

Lunchtime, I glued up the sides onto my second ankle wedge for my centre leg, using car body filler. I also back filled in the first wedge with the left over mix. This will help with fixing the wedges to the leg.

Leg Assembly 1.3


Noticed, after drilling the hole for the Ankle bush, that the wood filler had cracked slightly along the join lines. So drilled some more counter-sunk holes and fixed in screws along the leg section, around the shoulder and two more through the bottom of the ankle. I then applied more wood filler.


picture of back face with extra screws
Time: 1.5hrs


Whilst I was working on the ankle wedge sides, I took the opportunity to drill and press fit the Ankle bush into the centre leg [below].
Bush fitted into centre leg ankle

21/11/2011

Shoulder Horseshoes 1.1


Bought 3mm thick hardboard for making the shoulder horseshoe build ups. Got the wood from B&Q for £3+.


I had to double check I had the right piece as the price had gone up over a £1 since April, when I first saw it!


I cut out the three different horseshoe template sizes I had printed out onto paper, that i'll transfere onto the hardboard. I'll then cut them as square blank, screw them together and cut out each set with the jigsaw.

Ankle Wedge build 1.2


The template i had made was the right size, but the trimmed wood ones came out a bit small. The filler needed filing down and the gap left will be filled with more P40 resin.


I made up another template for the wedge sides and this time they should come out a better fit.




Not the best pic, but these side pieces are larger than the first ones.

17/11/2011

Ankle Wedge building

I decided that now would be a good time to finish off one thing, lol. So lunchtime I cut out the side pieces needed to complete my Centre Leg 'Wedges'.



Using masking tape to hold the sides of the wedge in place. I then us P40 car body resin to secure them to the front plate.



2001 a Blog Odyssey

Hahahaha, see what I did there with the title...... yeah, OK, not that funny :-D


Just that I noticed my Blog has now been viewed 2001 times......... why, I don't know lol


Thanks to all who have viewed my work so far, I hope it's been informative and interesting too.
If you have any questions on how or in fact why I've done something a certain way with my build, please post up comments or message me and I'll explain more fully. Am happy to help others along with your build.


Happy Building

16/11/2011

Leg Assembly 1.2

After fitting the ankle bush, I started to sand (with a large file) some of the wood filler down.


This is just the start of getting the leg edges running square.

Leg Assembly 1.1

Today I drilled out the Ankle hole in the leg. I used a 12mm dia wood bit.


Leg clamped up ready to be drilled


I then pushed the bush into the hole.
Bush being pressed into leg using the vice
Bush being pressed into leg using the vice
I also cut up some dowel to plug the curved ankle screw holes. These will be filled with wood filler later on.


Wood Plugs

15/11/2011

Leg Bush's

Yesterday I made these three bush's up for the leg ankles. Made out of Brass.



Today, I'm going to drill the Ankle hole for one of these to fit into.

14/11/2011

Leg assembly 1


This is a brief description of how I did the leg build.
Some of this will already have been posted before,
but I forgot to include this bit:


Drilled holes for securing the leg pieces together. Counter bored and counter sunk the holes. Screws needed to be ground shorter.


Next I marked out the centre piece for it's central part to be cut out. This is where the power cable for the feet motors will run down [see prev. post].


Next I marked up and drilled the location holes for the shoulder bolts. Off set the angle to 36 Deg's in total. 18 Deg's each, off centre.


I cut the rear and middle piece off, as these are shorter than the main front piece.


Added the front and rear pieces for the ankle, these are not the correct thickness, only 8mm, not the 9.5mm as on the 'Club' drawings. Was all I had available to me.


Next is the curved ankle pieces. These I made the same way as before [see older post].

I'd like to point out that this way of making the legs is not my idea! I'm just following many other builders who have created their legs along similar lines :)

R5 Leg 1 - update


At the weekend, I cut down to size the 2nd block piece needed to form the curved ankle. I  then marked & drilled two counter-sunk holes to screw the block in place.








I also finished the second stabiliser recess (just visible in the picture below). And created the recess for Stabiliser the legs to fit into. I then screwed the leg, back together & started to apply wood filler to leg.




total time: around 2hrs work.

10/11/2011

Curved Ankle pieces


Took into work today the length of wood that I used last time to create my curved ankle pieces.
I marked and cut the angle, 35 degs and length, which is just over 4 inch's, bout 101mm.


As you can see I've cut out three pieces. This is because I need to use wood filler on the legs to square them up. Once that's done, I can place the [to be] curved pieces in position and cut the third piece to the correct width to finish of the curve.





Positioned the 'block' onto the ankle plate & marked the curve onto its back face.
I then counter sunk two holes & screwed through with two screws (temp long ones).

Block with template and marked curve.

Slot marked onto front, just for reference.

I then cut off the excess and sanded the curved shape.


Curved piece part 1


Shoulder Stabiliser cut-out


This shows the first part of the Shoulder Stabiliser cut-out. The central red outlined part was cut out on the middle piece.






I then chiseled out the outer and inner leg pieces to match.






Below are two test pics of the Stabiliser in place :)



Need to add recess' for the legs to sit into


Repeat three more times :)

08/11/2011

Main Leg Ankle's thickened up

Didn't have time last night to do this, so on my lunch break, I drilled and counter sunk four off holes each side to secure the extra thickness plates onto the leg.


The tip of the front plate needs to be rounded off.




The picture below with the red line on shows the cut line for the rear plate.


Next is the curved section, which I will make up the same way as I did for the centre leg ones.

07/11/2011

Main Leg - Ankle thickness

Lunchtime I cut out the extra pieces needed to make the ankles the right'ish thickness. 8mm Plywood was used.
Before

Two of these will be cut shorter, as they will be going on the back face of the leg ankles. Only two per leg. Hope to have time to secure these to the leg tonight.

04/11/2011

Leg's with T-Nut's fitted

First picture shows the holes drilled in the leg. Note the one missing [circled with dots]. This position is not needed, as it's obscured by a bracket.


This next picture shows the T-nuts in position.


Marked cable holes, on the inside face you can't see here, to be drilled and also marked  clearance holes to allow the t-nut backs to lye flush.

Leg middle section cut out

In order to feed the electric cables from the batteries to the feet motors, you need to have a channel of some sort. Here, as with most wood leg builds, I've started to remove the centre of the middle piece.


The lines are just as straight as the cut lol


More to cut out.

03/11/2011

Leg holes marked ready for drilling....

Last night, I positioned the leg onto the shoulder disc and fixed it useing the clamp stud I had made up. I aligned it to the correct angle, using the help of a printed out template I had drawn up on CAD.


Clamping bolt in place


Then using the same 10mm diameter wood bit used to make the shoulder holes and using them as a guide, I taped the end of the bit to mark the centre position for drilling.


Here are some other pics of the leg clamped :)
Side view of  R5 [pic's been inverted, I wasn't standing on my head to take it]

The bolts in position, holding the shoulder disc in place 






Today I took the leg into work to drill out the holes using the pillar drill and a 12mm diameter wood bit. As the hole needs to be this size to accept the T-nuts shaft.


I'll take the leg apart to fit the T-nuts at home, using the actual leg bolts to align them correctly.

01/11/2011

Leg Bolts update.....

Yesterday my M10 T-nuts arrived in the post :). Also another parcel that couldn't be delivered.
Cut to length the remaining five studs needed for Leg No1. Then marking their positions out ready for drilling will be next.

The slots in the end are for using a screwdriver.

Had a look at straightening the lines (sides) of the Leg. Defo needs it and also wood filler to smooth everything out!