Ankle Cylinder for Main Leg No.2 - 2.1

Whilst waiting for the wood filler to dry on the Leg. I got to work on making up the end caps and location discs' I use to fix the Ankle Cylinder onto the leg. I then cut out the end pieces, angles them and will screw them onto the end caps.

Here are some links to what I did before. link to prev. works & link to end caps

The fixing design is not my idea, I have just copied it and modified it to suit my build :).

Main Leg 2 - 2.3

T-nuts are now in place so I test fitted the leg studding through the body, shoulder discs & into the Leg. Thightened up the internal nuts, pulling the studding tight onto the T-Nuts [fitted inside the leg]. Once happy, I fitted all the screws in place, clamping the leg sections together. Next I attached the rear & front ankle plates, that thicken up the ankle. Before I went any further, I opened out the hole in the Leg to accept the Shoulder Hub, as I'd forgot to do this the other day, lol. I then added aluminium strips as guides to the side edge of leg & started to apply wood filler. Also applied to the ankle side edge & edge of shoulder radius. Once dried I started to file flat any high spots.


Main Leg 2 - 2.2

Main Leg 2 secured ready for holes to be marked

Under Shoulder Stabiliser sockets & cable channel view
Leg holes being drilled for T-Nuts to be fitted
First I marked and cut the recesses which will be for the Under Shoulder Stabiliser sockets.
Screwed the cut out centre section, to allow cable to be routed through the leg, all together with it's inside & outside parts. Next I screwed the lower rear piece onto the ankle area. I then marked and cut these off.

last night I then fixed both legs onto R5's body, via shoulder hubs (discs). Then new leg was held in place with a single studded bar, whilst it was angled and its leg holes were marked ready for drilling. Dia 12mm holes were then drilled through the 'inside' part of the leg.  The 'middle' part had clearance holes drilled for the 'T-Nuts' to fit. I also drilled a hole through all for the centre hub to fit in.


Main Leg 2 - Cutting wood - 2.1

Whilst waiting for the primer to dry, I got to work on cutting out main leg number 2. Its been marked up on the wood for months. But due to working on other parts, plus not having a free hour or so (in the day) to cut out with the jigsaw, as it does make a racket, I finally got it done. Now I 've got it cut I can get on with creating it.
R2D2 Leg
Template screwed down onto board
R2D2 Leg
Stage 1 of build
Next will be to cut a channel in the centre piece to allow the motor cable to pass through.
I already have the ankle curved section cut out, just needs to be curved.

Body Skin 4.4 - More white paint

Well after masking off the utility arms & Octagon Port & other pre-sprayed areas,
I sprayed the skin inside and out with primer.
R2D2 Body skin build
Before going in after finishing up, (see Main Leg No2, post) 
I got out the white spray and gave the body a coat.
R2D2 Body Skin build
It looks great, will need a few more coats, but its a start :)


Booster Cover 2.3 - The second Leg

As I said the other day, been working when I can on R5's body and also his second Booster Cover. Here are some photos so far.
Here you can see the cardboard 'frame' I made up and the first application of wood filler.
And here's the end result, and after sanding with a tube to get the curve.
As I was spraying some other parts, I sprayed up the Cover, to help show up area's I might of missed with the wood filler.
Filler in the gaps.

Body Skin 4.3 & Octagon Port 2.5

Body Skin 4.3
Have started to apply masking tape over the Utility arms. I'll then mask off other areas that I don't want primer on. Then spray up the utility arm area & sockets and also re-do all the other areas of the body that have had wood filler applied to smooth over.

picture of arms starting to be masked off

Octagon Port 2.5
Front Octagon Port fitted inside the body, masked off and area sprayed with primer.

Here is the front Octagon Port after I'd sprayed the area around it white.
This will also be covered, to prevent over spray inside of the port.

Here is the rear Octagon Port, now secured in place with it's angle bracket. It just needs P40 resin applied around the edges, inside the body and then wood filler to the front edges/gaps.
Rear Octagon Port.


A small update......

Not been able to do much work on R5 these last few weeks, which is a little frustrating. Family holiday, decorating the home, health issues to deal with. But I have managed to do a little bit here and there.

Booster Cover
I made up two cardboard boxes, wrapped with selotape, and applied wood filler around them to make the two recessed areas of the curved section. Have to sand the curve in and see how it holds up. Attempt two will be P40 resin, as on cover no1.

R5's Body
I sprayed the lower area of the body with white paint, mainly around the front Octagon Port. This is so that I can touch up the Port itself with blue paint. I still have other areas to primer spray still, but this way I'm still able to do little bits. Once all the primer has been applied, I'll mask off areas and give R5 some more coats of white. Am not to fussed with him not being perfect, all this will (I hope) just add to the weathered & used look.

Octagon Port (rear, No2)
I've cut to size the angle bracket needed to secure the rear octagon port in place. These aren't really needed, but they do help secure the centre aluminium piece of the port and will aid the port from potentially being 'pushed' through into the body. The area inside the body will of course be bonded to the octagon port with P40 resin as well.

Battery Power
Lastly, I've put on charge a 12v 17amp battery, I found I still had lol. It was out of a not so good car jump starter pack! It may/will come in handy, and if nothing else, it is giving me an idea as to the kind of weight R5 will have inside him.